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San Cristóbal de las Casas |
 Palenque © Judith Duk The colonial village of San Cristóbal de las Casas is the
jewel in the centre of the cool Chiapas highlands, nestled in a
valley and surrounded by forests and hills. It is at the centre of
many traditional Mayan villages, and it is the indigenous soul of
the town, coexisting harmoniously with its colonial charm, that
makes it such an enchanting place to visit.
The town was originally designed as a Spanish stronghold against
the surrounding indigenous communities. It is a town of cobbled
lanes and long rambling streets that undulate with the hilly
terrain, squat whitewashed houses with red tiled roofs,
flower-filled patios, wrought iron balconies, shady plazas, ornate
facades and lavish churches. The main plaza was the Spanish centre
of town and today it is the best place to sit and watch the town
life happen. The cathedral dominates the northern side and its
steps are always busy with playful ragged children, arriving and
departing worshippers, resting passers by and vendors. North of the
plaza the daily market is a fascinating bustle of indigenous life,
a trading space for local produce and household goods.
The streets and plazas are filled with the vibrancy of people
from the surrounding villages who give the town its character and
dominate its trade. The region is known for its colourful
handicrafts, traditional markets, fascinating local fiestas,
legends and mystical ceremonies that are influenced by the Mayan
ancient traditions and way of life. Each barrio or neighbourhood of
the city has a distinctive identity, rooted in the old custom of
trade, with candle making, carpentry or blacksmith shops the
predominant feature in each.
San Cristóbal is an invigorating, yet peaceful town, a good
base to enjoy the graceful colonial atmosphere and to explore the
highland region and the outlying Indian villages. The grand Mayan
site at Palenque can be visited from here, as well as Agua Azul, a
dazzling series of waterfalls and turquoise pools that are one of
Mexico’s natural wonders.
Attractions  Santo Domingo © rockersmex Santo Domingo
Santo Domingo is the most beautiful of San Cristóbal's
churches, with a pink Baroque façade that is especially
impressive when lit up at night. The interior is richly decorated
and shimmers with gold. The ornate pulpit and golden altarpieces
are the main focus of this 16th century architectural monument. The
area in front and around the church is filled each day with craft
stalls and village traders.
Address: Lázaro Cardenas Street
Excursions Palenque
The setting for this spectacular ancient Mayan city is splendid,
a hauntingly beautiful site engulfed in the endless tropical jungle
that bristles with the shriek of insects. The architecture is
fantastic and for many Palenque is the most remarkable of the major
Mayan sites. The city was at its peak from 600 to 700 AD, an
important ceremonial centre and the provincial capital. The
buildings that are visible today form only a small part of what it
once was, and only a few of the remaining buildings have been
properly excavated. The reason for the city's decline is
still a mystery. Early morning is the best time to capture the
setting at its most photogenic, when swirling vapours encircle the
temples and the jungle. The slippery jungle paths climb steeply
past waterfalls and between trees, past ancient settlements
scattered around the jungle-clad hillsides, and rewarding views
from the temple tops take in the sweeping plains in the distance.
The highlight is the tallest and most important of Palenque’s
buildings, the magnificent Temple of Inscriptions. Constructed on
eight levels, there is a steep central stairway of 69 steps leading
to the rooms at the top. The rear interior wall is decorated with
panels of Mayan hieroglyphic inscriptions describing the history of
Palenque and the temple. There is a museum near the entrance of the
site.
Address: Four miles (6.5km) from Palenque town;
Transport: Frequent minibus services from Palenque town;
Opening time: Daily from 8am to 5pm
San Juan Chamula and Zinacantán villages
These two highland villages are the home of the Tzotzil people,
descendants of the ancient Mayans, and some of Mexico's most
traditional indigenous communities. Each village has a distinctive
highland dress as well as a weekly market and numerous festivals
honouring their patron saint and other special religious days.
Visitors should respect the local traditions and customs and be
especially sensitive when taking photographs. Villagers can be
unfriendly and are wary of tourists - understandably they do not
appreciate being regarded as tourist attractions. The best way to
visit the villages is with a local guide. San Juan Chamula is the
centre for religious festivals. Its main attraction is the church
on the plaza where, every Sunday, the village comes alive with
streams of villagers, men in loose homespun white woollen ponchos
and women in embroidered finery, who pour down the hills into the
candle-lit, incense-filled church, and then congregate together for
the weekly market. Their religion is a fascinating mixture of
Catholic and traditional Mayan rituals. The most colourful fiesta
in the region is the Carnival for which Chamula is famous. The
typical dress of the Zinacantán villagers is a red and white
striped poncho decorated with tassels and a flat, round hat
decorated with ribbons. Geranium is a revered plant that is used in
ritual offerings and the countryside is dotted with crosses and
offerings dedicated to their ancestor gods or the Earth Lord.
Photography is forbidden in the village.
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